The Tower by Kelly Cordes

The Tower by Kelly Cordes is a meticulously researched deep dive into one of the greatest controversies in mountaineering history: Did Cesare Maestri truly reach the summit of Cerro Torre in 1959? The book critically examines Maestri’s claims, the inconsistencies in his story, and the decades-long debate that followed.

The skinny: in 1959, Cesare Maestri, an Italian climber, claimed to have reached the summit of Cerro Torre, an awe-inspiring spire in Patagonia, along with his Austrian partner, Toni Egger. According to Maestri’s account, the two had battled extreme conditions on the north face of the mountain, ultimately reaching the top. However, tragedy struck on the descent—Egger was killed in an avalanche, and the camera containing photographic proof of their summit was lost.

Maestri’s dramatic retelling of their climb immediately sparked skepticism. No other climbers had come close to summiting Cerro Torre at the time, and those who attempted the mountain afterward found no clear evidence of their route. Key doubts arose, such as:

• The lack of verifiable proof: Without Egger’s camera, there was no photographic evidence to confirm their summit.

• No signs of their ascent: Later climbers found no pitons, bolts, or signs of their passage on the supposed route.

• The near-impossible speed: Maestri claimed they climbed and descended much faster than what was considered reasonable for such a difficult peak at the time.

• Inconsistent details: Maestri’s later accounts of the climb changed over time, leading many to believe he fabricated parts of the story.

The controversy deepened in 1970 when Maestri returned to Cerro Torre, determined to silence his critics by climbing the mountain again. However, rather than attempt his original route, he took a different approach—the Southeast Ridge—using a gas-powered compressor drill to place over 400 bolts into the rock. This heavy reliance on artificial aid outraged the climbing community, as it went against the ethics of pure alpinism. The route, known as the Compressor Route, became infamous as an example of excessive bolting and a violation of the spirit of climbing. Interestingly, Maestri stopped just below the actual summit, leaving behind the compressor as a symbolic "statement" against those who doubted him. His decision not to reach the summit further fueled suspicions about his original 1959 claim—if he had truly climbed Cerro Torre before, why wouldn’t he finish the climb this time?

Cordes presents a balanced yet critical examination of Maestri’s claims, neither outright accusing him of lying nor blindly accepting his version of events. He interviews historians, climbers, and locals, weaving a gripping narrative that blends adventure, mystery, and ethics. His storytelling captures the awe-inspiring danger of Cerro Torre, the obsession it instills in climbers, and the profound impact of Maestri’s controversial legacy.

As a group, we discussed all the evidence shown against Maestri, also concluding that he likely never reached the top of Cerro Torre. We further chatted about the following questions:

•Did we enjoy the mix of history, personal backstory, and investigative journalism?

•What drives people to climb these challenging ascents?

•Do you think Meastri believed he reached the top?

•Does climbing lose its magic by labeling routes?

•Did a person truly climb the mountain if they needed aid to do it (specifically, if one manually changes the effort to make it easier, did he succeed in climbing it?)

•When is bolting OK? Are Maestri’s actions justified?

•Should we take mountaineers for their word?

•Thoughts on the compressor route? Keep it or remove?

•Should climbing prioritize tradition or progress?

•What role does ego play in the book?

Overall, the controversy made for excellent discussion. However, the book was highly repetitive and somewhat boring at times; Cordes almost did too much research to make it an enjoyable read. Some of us listened to the professional audiobook while other listened to Cordes' audiobook from his website. Those of us that listened to his reading enjoyed it for the humor associated with it: he wasn't very good at it and it made for a comical listen.

Group mean rating: 7.1/10